Drainage of the house – installation of drainage and water pipes.
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Drainage from the house foundation with a drainage system became more and more important due to the heavy rain and continuous rain. Due to the slope of our property, the surface water always flowed to the house and seeped into the walls. A little later, the floors in the basement became wet and and in the lower basement the water was standing. I could not achieve much by drying the walls – before that, the cause of the dampness had to be eliminated. Drainage should remedy the situation.
Cracks in the walls after drying
In the last post, I already wrote about the uncovering of the foundation. We then left the exposed areas on the house open for a good 2 months so that they could dry out.
In the office in the basement, you could even follow the drying process via a hygrometer. Thus, the relative humidity there fell from an average of 85% to 65% now. In the recreation room, in turn, large cracks appeared in the joints in the wall of the round arch.
Experts later reassured me, however, that this would be so-called drying cracks and this would also be normal.
- Dieses Drainagerohr dient zur Gebäudedrainage nach DIN 4095 (Ein- und Mehrfamilienhaus), sowie zur Flächendrainage (Landwirtschaft, Sportanlagen)
- und zur Rohrleitungskontrolle (z.B. Kabelschutz, Sammelleitungen).
- Durchmesser DN/OD 100/110 Rohrlänge 50 m Material PP-Kunststoff Drainage geschlitzt bzw. gelocht
- Drainrohre für die optimale Drainage in allen relevanten Bereichen.
- Drainung mit Rohren von DN/OD 80 bis DN/OD 110.
Installation of drainage, rainwater and sewage pipe
In July, we began to install the drainage pipes in the open areas and took the opportunity to replace the remaining clay and cast iron pipes of the old rainwater and wastewater piping.
By the way, the drainage system was not the well-known yellow round pipe but a system called Strabusil. The advantage of this piping was that the lower part is not perforated, so the water can run off without seeping.
After laying the pipes was applied to the wall dimpled sheet. Since I have heard and read a lot here about the correct installation of the dimpled sheet, I would like to point out that I think it makes sense to lay the dimples inwards, i.e. towards the wall. This creates an air cushion between the wall and the dimpled sheet which promotes ventilation and drying of the masonry.
Gravel in small grain size was then placed on the pipes. This was then followed by a dirt fleece on which frost protection gravel was filled up to the ground edge.
Connection of foot wipers to the waste water connection
On the north side of the house, because of the driveway and entrance to the house, a little more planning was needed for the drywall.
On the one hand, the rest of the courtyard will certainly be paved again at some point – and this must be taken into account at the moment already in order not to tear out everything again later – on the other hand, the canopy of the front door and the Foot scraper in front of the stairs, both of which previously simply discharged stormwater into the driveway, will be incorporated into the drainage system.
For this purpose, blind branches were then laid first. After all, next year I don’t want to have to dig to a depth of 3m again to get to the pipes. So that I could find the connections later at first go, the position was marked with a folding rule and recorded on photos.
Drainage with excavator shovel and wheelbarrow
To be fair, I have to admit that I couldn’t manage the exposure on this scale with a shovel, of course. Here I had to rely on the help of an excavator.
With the mini-excavator I was able to carefully uncover some areas while I let the professionals with a large 20t excavator do the backfilling of the drainage trench.
With this, the 60-70 tons of ballast could be poured back into the trench quite quickly, which of course saved a lot of time and above all sweat.
But there were also places where I couldn’t get with the excavator without, for example, breaking the lawn. Here it was back to shovels and wheelbarrows – and the gravel was placed in the trench by hand.
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Tip: Since the gravel can be shoveled quite modestly, you ideally reach for a special“Frankfurt shovel“. These are tapered at the front and are significantly more robust than normal blades.
Due to the amount of frost protection have further optimized shoveling: I put a metal plate of 100 x 100 cm in front of the ballast pile, then pulled the stones with a rake onto the plate and could then shovel from it quite comfortably.
Little by little, I was able to backfill the trench and finally compact it with my vibratory plate.
Drainage with drainage – result
Since it rained constantly in mid-August, we were able to test our drainage directly and I must say that everything worked as desired. Despite the large amounts of water that ran to the house due to the slope, the climate improved significantly.
Keeping soil or groundwater out 100% of the time is not factually possible for a 110 year old house. But I think that we have reached the 90%.
- Wartungs- Kontroll- Revisions- Schacht für HT KG Rohremit integrierter RückstauklappeMaterial: PP (Polypropylen) schlagfest und temperaturbeständigSimpel in Wartung und Reinigung.Folgende Größen stehen zur Auswahl:Steigrohr DN400Anschluß Zulauf und Ablauf Ø160Sie können bei uns auch passende Reduzierungen 160/110,160/125 bestellenDer Schachtboden hat eine Höhe von 530 mm. Das Steigrohr wird 220 mm in den Schachtboden eingeschoben. Zur Ermittlung der Ge
Laying new lawn after drying
Furthermore, the rain showed very quickly that the areas around the house turned into a muddy landscape due to the high clay content in our soil.
I therefore generously spread fresh lawn seed behind the house again before our vacation week and cordoned off the area. In the meantime I have a good 20cm high relatively dense lawn standing here again 🙂
Around the house I will then put a border and this then probably fill with white decorative stones so that the whole thing is still given a visual kick.
By the way, with the remaining gravel I created a cobblestone path to the side entrance and prepared another parking space. But more about that in another article.
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5 Comments
finn
Nach Frühlingsüberschwemmungen muss ja die Trockenlegung ausgeführt. Meinen Dank für die Tipps dazu und die Visualisierung davon, denn ich soll meinen Eltern doch helfen. Wenn ich mich an diese Anleitungen halte, hoffe ich, mache ich nichts verkehrt. Nach dem Bagger soll vielleicht gesucht werden.
Mailin Dautel
Ich liebe euren Blog, der ist echt super. Wir haben uns auch eine alte Villa gekauft und sanieren selbst. Unser nächste Schritt ist die Trockenlegung des Kellers. Wir haben Kapillarwasserseperren gekauft und müssen diese noch einbauen. Es war eine gute Idee das Rasenstück mit Bändern abzustecken, dass sollten wir bei uns vielleicht auch machen. Meine Kinder laufen einfach immer über den frisch gesäten Rasen.
Joachim Hussing
Es ist schön zu hören, wie Sie die Entwässerungsmaßnahmen Mitte August bei Regen direkt testen konnten. Mein Haus hatte in den letzten Wochen einige Entwässerungsprobleme, und ich möchte es reparieren lassen. Ich werde für die Reparatur der Entwässerung professionelle Hilfe suchen.
Hendrik
Das sieht sehr interessant und professionell au, wie sie die Drainage gelegt haben. Regen ist bei uns eigentlich kein Problem. Wir haben aber auch permanent Feuchtigkeit im Haus und ich überlege, ob ich eine Leckortung durchführen lasse.
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