In the past few years, we have accomplished many things in the house. Initially, the work was focused on repair and renovation, and later more and more on the construction and expansion of the individual rooms. Much has already been mastered in the cellar as well.
Most of the electrical system was completely renewed, as were the inlets and outlets. From the outside, the entire house was drained. Only in a basement room on the southeast side had time stood still in recent years. But here, too, things should now be moving forward.
GDR wash house with clay pipes in the floor
The old washhouse differed from the other basement rooms just by its drain embedded in the floor. The floor was slippery as an eel, waterproof and with a slope of 5% towards the center.
Next to the floor drain, there was an old DDR HT drain on the wall, in which we had provisionally integrated the drain for the kitchen and the hot springs coming from above.
Now, on the otherwise dry cellar floor, moisture stains appeared from time to time, which I had wanted to investigate for some time. At some point, the time arose to look into the ground. So I started to chisel the floor from the GDR inlet.
This was easily possible at this point with a hammer and chisel. As the ground conditions revealed, this pipe was subsequently tied in and the trench was backfilled with a different concrete.
So I picked along the drain pipe first down where after a good 15cm I already came across a sharp 90° angle. From there, we continued towards the center of the room. Somewhere this pipe would discharge into the floor drain and then into the main sewer pipe.
Chisel up old floor in the laundry room
After a good 100 cm, the ground became harder and harder and instead of large clods, only small crumbs came off. I need more power – and so the pneumatic chisel was connected to the compressor.
Now it went on again until I came across the clay pipe into which the GDR pipe simply ended in a small hole on the top. Supported by a 15kg cement mixture, this should probably have been the solution at the time.
Earthworms in clay pipe drain
At a trench depth of a good 30cm by now, I had already reached below the gravel layer in the clay soil when I uncovered the clay pipe in search of the next socket.
And to my amazement, this moist supple clay soil was alive – it consisted namely of hundreds of earthworms that felt right at home in the soil around the hole in the clay pipe. Those who know the snake pit scenes from Indiana Jones know what I mean.
- KG Anschluss an Steinzeugspitzende KGUS
- Durchmesser: DN110
- Länge (L): 60 mm
- Material: Polyvinilchlorid hart (PVC-hart)
- hergestellt nach DIN EN 13476-2 und DIN EN 1401
- Durchmesser: DN110
- Durchmesser (d): 138 mm
- Durchmesser (D): 156 mm
- Länge (L): 60 mm
With relief I discovered already a few cm next to the hole the socket to the next clay pipe in the direction of the sewage shaft. Now this area was generously cleaned of soil and earthworms.
Obviously, the clay pipe from the middle of the room was not flush with the continuing pipe, so that there were regularly small but steady water leaks.
KG pipe tie into the old GDR clay pipe
A solution was needed: First, a survey was taken to replace the old GDR pipe with HT or KG pipe. A further branch was also to tie in a floor drain to be installed elsewhere at a later date.
And finally, the whole, this time tightly, had to be tied into the old clay pipe. Fortunately, there was still a suitable sleeve including rubber ring for the transition from the HT or KG to the clay pipe in my building materials store.
Price: € 104.20instead of: € 110.00
Price: € 12.71
This was, under loud cursing, then fitted exactly to the clay pipe. The 90° angle from the vertical HT pipe from the kitchen has been replaced by two 45° angles – this results in better washing off of the residues in the pipe.
With a 45° T-piece, some angles and some yardage of pipe, the connection was now closed again – and it was tight!
The water test showed no leaks, so the narrow gap between the transition sleeve and the clay pipe was generously compacted with silicone before the pipe was sanded and reinforced with concrete to stabilize it.
Once the new position of the floor drain is known, the T-piece can then be rotated accordingly and the rest of the pipe laid accordingly.