Securing slopes with gabions – building perfect corners and curves
Table of Content
The stone baskets for the gabion wall were erected over a length of a good 20 meters within a few weeks. Starting from the driveway in a south-easterly direction, I was able to build a slight curve.
The spirals provide a certain amount of play – but this does not allow for tight curves. So now I had to form proper corners with the stone baskets.
Building corners and curves with gabions – options
In my view, there are two ways of doing this. On the one hand, I was able to shorten the individual baskets at the appropriate points with a bolt cutter and then fit the next basket flush again.
In this way, I could assemble the stone baskets in such a way that there would be no overlapping – and therefore significantly less tension.
But there would also have been a disadvantage. Cutting through the galvanized steel would make the separation point susceptible to rust and corrosion. In view of an expected service life of several decades, I would have had to treat all separation points generously with zinc spray.
Alternatively, I could place the individual wire baskets inside each other to form a corner, which would leave the galvanization of the wire mesh intact. However, twisting the spirals should be much more strenuous as the baskets would have more tension on each other.
I opted for the second option – I could always shorten the baskets.
- Gabionenkorb * Breite 1000 mm * Höhe 1000 mm * Tiefe 500 mm
- Frontgittergröße 1000 x 1000 mm * Maschenweite 50 x 100 mm * Drahtstärke 4,5 mm
- Maschenweite der restlichen Gitter 100 x 100 mm * Drahtstärke 4,5 mm
- Verbindungsart * Spiralverbindung
- Ausführung Galfan (95% Zink, 5% Alu)
Place basket in basket – A curve is created
So I pulled and pushed the baskets of the already installed gabion wall as far as possible around the curve in the desired direction and left the last basket open at the end. I placed the next basket in this opening.
At the front outer edge, this was attached flush with the previous basket through the spiral. At the back, the new basket was set a few meshes into the previous basket.
The baskets were set flush together at the front. You could only see the overlap on the back. But as this area would later be filled with soil, it didn’t matter.
I was also able to turn the spiral in at the overlap of the back of the respective baskets. This was important to ensure continued high stability within the gabion wall.
I had to arrange the dividing grid between the two baskets at an angle as a right angle was no longer possible. However, I was also able to turn the spirals in at the offset separating grilles with increased effort. This also ensured stability here.
To make my work easier, I first fixed some of the grids with cable ties and then twisted in the spirals. Overall, the assembly was much more complex and also more difficult, but the stability was and is extremely high.
The following stone baskets were also assembled in this way, one inside the other, until I had finally created a matching angle to the alignment of my existing gabion wall.
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Video – Building a gabion slope – corners and curves
The 5th part of my video documentation focuses on creating the corners and curves in a gabion wall. I filmed my work steps and hope to be able to give you an even better overview.
You can find the entire playlist of my videos here: Gabions for slope stabilization. If you want to see more of me and my projects, feel free to check out my YouTube channel.
Overcome a height difference of 1 meter
However, a second problem arose right at the bend – the height difference of a good meter. Here, too, there were various options.
For example, I could have extended the required one-meter-deep trench by another 10 meters.
In view of the difficult ground conditions for digging – and the lack of storage facilities for the excavated material – I wanted to do without it. With this variant, the lower row of baskets would also have disappeared completely into the ground.
I therefore decided to build the wall piece by piece on the raised level.
The last existing basket ended just below the soil scar. I therefore excavated the earth scar to such an extent that further baskets, this time only 50 cm high, could be attached flush to the existing wall.
Although these would later also disappear under the surrounding earth, they formed a solid foundation for the later second row of cages. At the end of these sunken baskets, the earth scar corresponded again to the upper edge of the starting basket and I was able to build far with my metric baskets.
Now came the tedious part of the work – filling the baskets.
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