Build your own smoke-free fire barrel: DIY instructions from a 200 L oil drum with secondary ventilation
Building your own fire barrel is an exciting DIY project for the garden that not only provides warmth, but is also sustainable.
An old 200-liter barrel or oil drum can be turned into an efficient and virtually smoke-free heat source with a little manual skill.
I built my own fire barrel and tested different variants – from simple burnout to optimized secondary ventilation.
In this article, I’ll show you step by step how I went about it and what to look out for when baking, drilling and choosing materials.
What you can expect in this blog post
- What materials and tools you need to build your own fire barrel
- How to remove the lid and bake safely
- Why secondary ventilation is crucial for a smoke-free fire
- Tips for rust prevention, painting and care
- How the barrel can be reused with a grill grate or fire plate
The purpose of a fire barrel
A fire barrel is a simple but extremely effective way to create warmth, light and atmosphere in the garden or on the patio. Originally, barrels of this type were used as a temporary heat source on building sites or in workshops. Today, they are a popular design element for cozy evenings outdoors and combine practical heat generation with rustic charm.
The purpose of a fire barrel is the controlled combustion of wood within a closed metal body. The barrel protects the fire from the wind, concentrates the heat and deflects the smoke upwards in a more targeted manner. The arrangement of ventilation holes creates stable air circulation, which ensures even flame formation. Modern versions with secondary ventilation burn the flue gases almost completely – the result is a smoke-free, clean flame with high heat output.
Advantages of a fire barrel
- Outdoor heat source: Ideal for cool summer or fall evenings.
- Controlled fire: Safer than an open fireplace due to the closed design.
- Low smoke and efficient: With the right air flow, the result is clean, virtually smoke-free combustion.
- Sustainable: Old oil drums can be reused instead of being disposed of.
- Versatile use: With a grill grate or a fire plate, the fire barrel can also be used for barbecues.
- Decorative: The resulting patina gives the garbage can a rustic, individual look over time.
Disadvantages and limits
- Rust susceptibility: Without regular care and protective coating, rust will form.
- Limited service life: Thin sheet steel can burn through over time.
- Weight and transportation: A full ton is heavy and should therefore be used stationary.
- Legal requirements: In some municipalities, open fires in the garden require a permit or are subject to emission control requirements.
Functionality and fire material
A fire barrel works on the principle of the chimney effect:
Fresh air flows in through the lower ventilation holes (primary air), which feeds the fire. The rising heat creates a suction that draws in additional air. In models with secondary ventilation, preheated air enters the upper section and burns off the remaining flue gases – resulting in a particularly clean flame pattern.
Only dry, untreated wood is suitable as a fire material.
Hardwoods such as beech, oak or ash are ideal – they burn evenly and produce long-lasting embers. Softwood (e.g. spruce, fir) can be used, but it burns faster and produces more flying sparks.
It is forbidden to burn treated wood, chipboard, paint residues or waste – these materials release pollutants and violate the Federal Immission Control Act (BImSchG).
Possible alternatives
In addition to classic fire barrels, there are various alternatives that fulfill similar functions:
- Fire bowl: Open variant with greater radiant heat, but more smoke development.
- Fire basket: Decorative and airy, ideal for smaller areas.
- Firebox or patio stove: Closed systems with targeted heat emission and low smoke development.
- Fire barrel with fire plate: Combination of heat source and cooking surface.
- Washing machine drum: A creative upcycling idea with an interesting look and high air circulation.
Each of these variants has its own strengths. However, the classic fire barrel remains the most versatile solution – robust, inexpensive and easy to build yourself with a little manual skill.
Design, material and preparation
To build my own fire barrel, I used a cleaned steel drum – technically a 200-liter sheet steel drum, also known colloquially as an oil drum. These barrels are robust, heat-resistant and ideal for building a fireplace or DIY fire basket.
Before starting work, the barrel should be thoroughly cleaned so that no residues or vapors are produced during the first firing.
If you don’t have a suitable 200-litre drum available, you can find suitable models on online platforms such as eBay, Amazon or in specialist metal stores. Car workshops, paint stores, agricultural machinery dealers and metalworking businesses also often give away empty oil drums cheaply or free of charge.
It is important that the drum is undamaged inside and out and has no cracks or corrosion damage. Clean, unused barrels are available from around 75 euros.
I use an angle grinder (Flex) with a grinding wheel to remove the old paintwork. The lacquer should be sanded off beforehand or completely degassed during baking. After cleaning, the surface can be sealed with a heat-resistant paint to slow down the formation of rust.
Environmental and safety aspects
Special care must be taken when handling used oil drums. If the drum contains used oil, fuel or chemical residues, these must not be discharged into the ground, drains or household waste. In Germany, the disposal of such substances is subject to the Closed Substance Cycle Waste Management Act (KrWG) and the Waste Oil Ordinance.
Residues must be disposed of properly via the local recycling center, a hazardous waste collection point or an authorized disposal company.
Only environmentally friendly cleaning agents that do not contain aggressive chemicals should be used for cleaning. The rinsing water may only be discharged into the sewage system if the drum was previously filled with harmless substances (e.g. food fats). Otherwise, the cleaning water is considered to contain oil and must be disposed of separately.
If you want to clean a used barrel, you should rinse it several times with hot water and washing-up liquid and leave it to dry completely. Only when there are no more residues or odors can the barrel be processed further.
All work must be carried out in accordance with the applicable environmental and safety regulations – particularly with regard to occupational health and safety and environmental protection guidelines.
Tool overview
- Angle grinder / Flex
- Cut-off wheel, roughing wheel, step drill
- Drill (metal drill up to 30 mm)
- Safety goggles, gloves, hearing protection
- Heat-resistant lacquer for subsequent sealing
- gebrauchtes 200 Liter Blechfass - 200 Liter Transportfass aus der Fruchtsaftindustrie Lebensmittelindustrie
- Die Tonne ist mit ausreichend Luftlöchern vorgebohrt
- Durchmesser ca. 58 cm und eine Höhe von ca. 90 cm
- Sie erhalten eine Tonne mit orignal Lack, nach dem ersten richtigen Befeuern brennt der Lack an der Tonne ab und es bildet sich die schöne Patina, wie auch auf den Bildern zu sehen.
- Brenntonne geeignet für Holz, Briketts, Pellets oder Gartenresten
Removing the cover
The first step in building my fire barrel was to remove the lid.
I used an angle grinder with a cutting disk and cut open the top edge of the barrel along the seam. This created flying sparks, which is why I naturally wore safety goggles, gloves, ear protection and long-sleeved work clothes. The barrel stood on a stable, flat surface and I made sure that no sparks flew in the direction of flammable materials.
I cut out the lid slowly and evenly to achieve a clean edge, leaving a margin of about one centimeter. This later served as a support surface for a fire plate or grill grate. I then smoothed the cut edges with a roughing wheel, removed burrs and ensured a safe, smooth surface.
Alternatively, the cover could have been removed using a jigsaw with a metal blade or tin snips. However, as precision and stability were important to me, I opted for the angle grinder. If you don’t want to do this work yourself, you can also have the cut made in a workshop with a stationary cutting saw or plasma cutter.
- ☑️ Profi-Fächerscheiben (20 Stück) - DER hochwertige Aufsatz für Ihren Winkelschleifer
- ☑️ Eigenschaften dieser Fächerscheiben: Inox (rostfrei), Größe: 125 mm, Mixpack (je 5 x Korn 40/60/80/120)
- ☑️ Die besonders hochwertigen Schleifmittellamellen eignen sich ideal zum Schleifen und perfektem Polieren von Metall, Stein, Holz und vielen anderen Materialien
- ☑️ Ein müheloses Bearbeiten größerer Oberflächen ist für diese Lamellenscheiben mit einem Durchmesser von 125 mm kein Problem
- ☑️ Weitere Fächerscheiben in verschiedenen Körnungen, Größen und Qualitätsstandards finden Sie in unserem Online-Shop
Drilling the primary ventilation
Once the lid was removed, I started drilling the primary ventilation holes, which are crucial for airflow and clean combustion.
I drilled the holes at the bottom of the barrel, about 8 to 10 cm above the ground. In order to optimize the air circulation, I decided to use two rows of holes that were about 15 cm apart vertically.
The bottom row supplied the primary air directly into the combustion chamber, while the top row supported the rising air flow and enabled additional oxygen supply in the flame zone.
I positioned the holes of the upper row offset between the holes of the lower row, i.e. in a slightly offset grid.
This arrangement ensures that the air circulates evenly around the entire barrel and that there are no “dead zones” in which the flame burns unevenly.
I started with a smaller steel drill and pre-drilled all the holes before enlarging them to the final diameter of about 25 – 30 mm with a step drill.
This allowed the metal to be worked in a controlled manner without tearing or overheating.
The drilled holes thus formed the basis for the entire combustion air – a kind of natural air control that visibly improved the combustion behavior.
The subsequent burn-in showed that the flame drew particularly calmly and evenly thanks to this arrangement.
![Pinava® Stufenbohrer [ROBUST Line] für Metall, Edelstahl, Kunststoff & Holz [Ø 4-32 MM] - Profi HSS Kegelbohrer - Schälbohrer 10mm Schaft - Blechbohrer Step Drill Bit](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/51Ny8y0OJSL._SL160_.jpg "Build your own smoke-free fire barrel: DIY instructions from a 200 L oil drum with secondary ventilation 14")
- ✅ NOCH ROBUSTER UND NOCH SCHÄRFER - Mit dem Robust Line Stufenbohrer von Pinava aus HSS6542 Schnellarbeitsstahl bohren Sie saubere und präzise Löcher. Selbst in Bleche aus Edelstahl bis 1.5mm Dicke!
- ✅ VORBOHREN, AUFBOHREN & ENTGRATEN - Als Kunststoffbohrer oder Blechbohrer: Perfekt für Bleche aus Stahl, Edelstahl, Aluminium, Messing oder Kupfer. Auch ideal für Holz & Kunststoffe geeignet!
- ✅ PROFI-QUALITÄT FÜR HEIMWERKER - Perfekt als Lochbohrer für Metall, z.B. als Aufbohrhilfe für Tankdurchführung, Lochschneider für Spüle & Wasserhähne oder Elektrokästen oder Holzplatten!
- ✅ 10 MM SCHAFT FÜR BOMBENFESTEN HALT - Unser Kegelbohrer passt in alle gängigen Akkuschrauber und Bohrmaschinen: Bosch, Makita, Einhell,.. Die geraden Spannuten bieten optimalen Spanauswurf!
- ✅ UNSER PINAVA QUALITÄTS VERSPRECHEN - Wir vertrauen zu 100% in unsere Qualität & bieten Ihnen eine absolut risikolose Bestellung: Sollten Sie mit unserem HSS Stufenbohrer nicht zufrieden sein, erhalten Sie Ihr Geld zurück - bis zu 60 Tage nach Kauf!
Burning in the barrel
Once all the primary ventilation holes were drilled, I started to bake the barrel – a key step in the process to completely remove any residue or coating from the metal.
The aim was to burn through the barrel completely, both inside and out, so that all layers of paint, paint and soot residues as well as any residues were destroyed and degassed by the heat.
I placed the barrel outside on a fireproof surface and filled it with a large quantity of dry hardwood. I then lit the fire and let it burn slowly until the entire barrel – from bottom to top – was evenly heated.
The drilled ventilation holes in the lower part of the barrel created a powerful chimney effect, which ensured even air circulation and effectively supported combustion.
With increasing exposure to heat, the paintwork on the inside and outside began to change.
At first, dark discolorations formed, then the paint began to bubble and flake off.
This reaction occurs because the solvents, resins and binders contained in the paint decompose due to the high temperature and escape as gases.
What remains is a matt, rough surface on which a natural patina will later form.
During this process, you can clearly see how the barrel changes color – the formerly shiny coating transforms into a dull dark metal structure with occasional light oxidation marks.
I let the fire burn for several hours until no more smoke was visible and the metallic surface had evenly discolored.
The fire barrel was then left overnight to cool down completely before I continued working on it.
This step is necessary because the metal is extremely hot after burning through and could deform or crack if processed too early.
After cooling down, I removed the remaining paint and soot residue with a wire brush.
The surface was now free of coatings, cleanly degassed and ready for further processing.
The complete baking process therefore took a whole working day, but was decisive for the subsequent result: a clean, odourless and smoke-free fire barrel, whose surface was thermally stabilized and freed of all residues.
- Ein neuer Blickfang ! Die Feuertonne mit dem dem bösen Blick unseres Stierkopfes!
- Die Tonne ist nicht nur passend zum grillen mit einer Feuerplatte wie geschaffen sondern auch um ein geselligen Abend mit dem Stockbrot über der offenen Flamme zu genießen. Durch verschiedenste Anbauteile kann die Feuertonne immer wieder neu punkten, ob mit einem Anstecktisch oder dem Flammlachsbrett zum direkten anstecken an die Tonne.
- Das Design und die Vollendung kommen aus unserem eigenen Hause. Wir haben uns für eine hitzebeständige, schwarze Beschichtung entschieden, damit die Feuertonne langlebig ein optisches Highlight bleibt.
- Hinweis: Nur mit einem Feuerkorb zu empfehlen! Sicherlich haben Sie schon einige Feuertonnen glühen sehen, um diesem Erhitzen der Tonne aus dem Weg zu gehen ist ein Feuerkorb nötig. Hierfür eignet sich unser in höhenverstellbare XXL Feuerkorb perfekt. Damit ist wie auf den Beispielbildern der Stierkopf in seiner vollen Pracht im Glanz des Feuers zu sehen! Diesen haben wir Ihnen als Beispielfoto mit beigefügt, ist aber nicht im Lieferumfang enthalten.
- Tipp: Mit dem höhenverstellbaren XXL Feuerkorb erreichen Sie zudem die perfekte Höhe zum Zubereiten von z.B. Stockbrot, Marshmallows uvm. am offenen Feuer. Verwandeln Sie die Feuertonne durch einen Feuerkorb + Auflageleiste + Feuerplatte in eine Outdoorküche! Dieses und weiteres Zubehör finden Sie bei uns im Shop. Details: Durchmesser: ca. 590mm Höhe: ca. 850mm
Drilling the secondary ventilation
After the barrel had completely burnt out and cooled down, I started drilling the secondary ventilation – a crucial step for the subsequent smoke-free burning behavior.
I drilled the holes evenly around the top of the barrel, about 10 cm below the edge.
The holes had a diameter of around 10 mm and were about 15 cm apart.
This arrangement ensures that the air flows evenly into the upper part of the combustion chamber and supplies the hot flue gases with additional oxygen.
Secondary ventilation works on the principle of afterburning through negative pressure.
The intense heat inside the barrel causes hot air to rise upwards, creating a natural chimney effect.
This creates a vacuum in the upper area of the barrel, which draws in fresh, oxygen-rich outside air through the small secondary holes.This air is preheated on its way along the hot barrel wall and then flows inside above the main flame into the area of the rising flue gases.
There, the oxygen combines with unburned particles and hydrocarbons that would otherwise escape as smoke.This post-combustion produces a much cleaner, hotter flame that burns almost smoke-free.
The burning behavior is more stable, the flame rises evenly and soot formation is almost completely prevented.In principle, this is the same effect that is also used in modern wood-burning stoves with a secondary air system – only without technical components, solely through clever air routing and temperature difference.
Video: Build your own smoke-free fire barrel – DIY instructions from a 200-liter oil drum
I have documented the construction of my smokeless fire barrel in a detailed and practical YouTube video.
In it, I show step by step how to turn an old steel barrel into an efficient and virtually smoke-free heat source – including drilling the primary and secondary ventilation, the burn-in and the final burning behavior in comparison of both variants.
All work steps are filmed in real time and explained clearly in the video.
The complete video can be found in my playlist “DIY instructions & tutorials” on my YouTube channel.
Another overview of my videos on building the animal house with outdoor aviary can be found in the Garden blog category.
Zuletzt aktualisiert am 17. October 2025 um 15:30 . Ich weise darauf hin, dass sich hier angezeigte Preise inzwischen geändert haben können. Alle Angaben ohne Gewähr. (*) Bei den verwendeten Produktlinks handelt es sich um Affiliate Links. Ich bin nicht der Verkäufer des Produktes. Als Amazon-Partner verdiene ich an qualifizierten Verkäufen. Dein Preis ändert sich jedoch nicht.
![Pinava® Stufenbohrer [ROBUST Line] für Metall, Edelstahl, Kunststoff & Holz [Ø 4-32 MM] - Profi HSS Kegelbohrer - Schälbohrer 10mm Schaft - Blechbohrer Step Drill Bit](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/51Ny8y0OJSL._SL75_.jpg "Build your own smoke-free fire barrel: DIY instructions from a 200 L oil drum with secondary ventilation 31")
Smoke-free heat in the garden
The first test clearly showed how efficiently the fire barrel works:
It generated an intense, even heat that spread not only upwards but also sideways over the metal housing – similar to a radiator.
The steel barrel stored some of the heat generated and emitted it evenly to the surroundings as infrared radiant heat.
This form of heat transfer is particularly pleasant, as it not only heats the air, but also the surrounding bodies and surfaces.
You can literally feel them on your skin when you sit in front of the barrel – even at a distance.
The metal acts as a heat accumulator: it absorbs the heat from the flames, distributes it over the entire surface and continuously releases it again.
In contrast to an open fire bowl or a fire basket, this creates a more even, more extensive heat radiation, which is hardly lost even in windy conditions.
Thanks to the secondary ventilation, combustion was extremely clean, the smoke was drawn vertically upwards and the flame remained calm and clear.
The decision to build your own fire barrel was therefore doubly worthwhile: not only is it functional and efficient, it also looks good.
The high heat exposure caused a dark patina to form on the outside, giving the barrel a rustic and authentic look – typical of the character of a handmade DIY project.
Extensions: Barbecues and fire plates
The fire barrel with fire plate can be used in a variety of ways – as an atmospheric fireplace for cozy evenings or as a barbecue variant for the outdoor area.
I placed a suitable grill grate on top and tested the barrel as an improvised grill.
Alternatively, a raw steel plate or a stainless steel fire plate can be used as a support.
With small support strips or suitable spacers, the panel can be positioned securely and stably so that it lies flat even when used for long periods.
When using it as a barbecue, it is important to consider possible concerns regarding smoke development.
Even if the secondary ventilation ensures virtually smoke-free combustion, visible smoke may occur for a short time when adding wood or with slightly damp fuel.
This is completely normal and not a sign of malfunction, but part of the air regulation during the transition between the glowing and flame phase.
To avoid unwanted smoke, only dry, untreated hardwood should be used.
Another important aspect concerns the previous contents of the barrel.
If the drum was originally used as an oil drum or chemical container, all residues, oil vapors and paint residues must be completely removed or burned out.
Residues of oil or solvents could release toxic gases when exposed to high temperatures and must never come into contact with food.
For this reason, a fire barrel that will later be used as a barbecue area should only be made from a cleaned or unused 200-liter steel barrel.
After complete burnout, the material is thermally cleaned and free of residues.
Only then can the barrel be used without hesitation as a barbecue barrel or in combination with a stainless steel fire plate.
This makes the fire barrel not only a functional heat source, but also a safe and versatile cooking and barbecue station in your own garden.
- FÜR KUGELGRILLS: Unsere hochwertige Feuerplatte ist perfekt geeignet für Kugelgrills und Feuertonnen - und damit ideal für das Grillen am offenen Feuer.
- EFFEKTIVE HITZENUTZUNG: Die Form der Feuerplatte sorgt für perfekte Röstaromen, ohne das Grillgut im eigenen Saft zu garen.
- MADE IN GERMANY: Unser Familienunternehmen steht für Qualität und Präzision - entwickelt und hergestellt in Deutschland.
- PERFEKTES DESIGN: Dank der mittigen Öffnung ist die Grillplatte durch unser Zubehör perfekt erweiterbar - z.B. mit der Wok-Krone oder der Pizzabox.
- JETZT BESTELLEN: Greife direkt zu und profitiere von unserem unschlagbaren Kundenservice und Premium-Qualität, die sich auszahlt!
Care, rust and service life
A fire barrel is usually made of thin sheet steel, which is why rust can never be completely avoided in the long term.
However, with a little care and the right installation, the service life can be significantly extended.
After each use, the garbage can should cool down completely before ash and ember residues are removed.
This prevents moisture from collecting in the ash and corroding the floor area.
It is also advisable to drill several small holes in the bottom of the barrel so that rainwater can drain away unhindered.
Standing water inside is one of the most common reasons for premature rust formation.
It is also important that the fire barrel is not placed directly on the ground.
A slight elevation – for example a circle of bricks on which the lower edge of the barrel rests – ensures that no moisture can reach the metal from below.
At the same time, water that falls through the combustion chamber can drain away better and the air circulation under the barrel is also improved.
Optionally, the surface can be treated with a heat-resistant paint (>800°C!!) to further slow down the formation of rust.
If the barrel is permanently outdoors, it should be placed underneath or protected with a cover to prevent water from entering the barrel.
The principle can also be transferred to a washing machine drum or laundry drum – it is naturally more rustproof, but works slightly differently due to its open hole structure. Removing such a drum from the washing machine is not that difficult.
With regular care, optimum installation and simple weather protection, a self-built fire barrel can be used reliably for many years.
- Hitzebeständige Farbe in Schwarz Matt – Das JENOLITE BBQ & Ofen Lackspray ist eine feuerfeste Farbe für Grills und anderen Objekten, die extrem hohen Temperaturen von bis zu 650°C standhält und als thermische Barriere zum Schutz von Metalloberflächen dient
- Keine Grundierung erforderlich – Dieser Grill Lack wurde für die Verwendung ohne Grundierung entwickelt. Diese sprühfarbe lässt sich schnell und einfach auftragen und hinterlässt eine attraktive, matte Oberfläche, die jahrelang hält
- Rostbeständig – Das Spray für den Grill schützt vor Rost und verlängert die Lebensdauer von Grills und Öfen. Als Teil der JENOLITE Directorust Reihe können diese Lacke direkt auf leichten Rost aufgetragen werden, um weitere Korrosion zu verhindern
- Vielseitiger Einsatz – Geeignet für Metall, Ziegel, Zement, Keramik, Pflaster, Grills, Öfen, Rohre, Feuerroste, Kamine und Fahrzeugteile, die hohen Temperaturen ausgesetzt sind, wie Auspuffanlagen, Motoren und Bremssättel
- Verwendung im Innen- und Außenbereich – Dank seiner hervorragenden UV- und Wetterbeständigkeit eignet sich dieser Hitzebeständiger Lack sowohl für den Innen- als auch für den Außenbereich. Hergestellt in Großbritannien mit hochwertiger Rezeptur
Conclusion: Building your own fire barrel is worthwhile
Building a smokeless fire barrel from an old oil drum is a simple, effective and inexpensive project.
With just a few tools, you can create a real highlight for your garden or patio.
The burn-out, the double air supply and the clean finish create a long-lasting heat source with little smoke and a beautiful flame pattern.
Whether as a fireplace, barbecue or decorative element – anyone who wants to build their own fire barrel can achieve a robust and functional result with this method.
Summary
The article shows how to build a fire barrel yourself – as a DIY project for the garden from an old 200-liter barrel or oil drum. The step-by-step instructions document the assembly: Removing the lid, drilling the primary vent (two rows in the lower area), completely burning out/burning in the barrel and then drilling the secondary vent about 10 cm below the rim. The air circulation follows the chimney effect: primary air feeds the embers, the secondary air leads to post-combustion of the flue gases – the result is an efficient, virtually smoke-free flame.
In the practical section, the advantages (controlled, even heat emission, less smoke, upcycling of the barrel) and disadvantages (susceptibility to rust of thin sheet metal, limited service life, legal framework conditions for open fires) are transparently classified. The radiant heat from the metal body provides noticeable, lateral warmth – similar to a radiator. The article is rounded off with information on the choice of material, coating (removal/outgassing during baking), maintenance (drainage holes in the base, raised installation, cover) and safety/environment (cleaning, disposal of residues).
Options such as a grill grate, fire plate and the fire barrel with fire plate variant are described as extensions; fire bowl, fire basket, fire box/patio stove and the washing machine drum are mentioned as alternatives. The accompanying video documents the direct comparison of the two variants (with/without secondary ventilation) and shows the significantly lower-smoke burning behavior after the second step. All in all, a robust fireplace is created with just a few tools, which is visually appealing thanks to its patina and functionally impressive thanks to the double air flow.
FAQ – Frequently asked questions about the construction and operation of a fire barrel
1. how does a fire barrel actually work?
A fire barrel uses the chimney effect: fresh air flows in through ventilation holes in the lower section, supplying the fire with oxygen. Hot air rises, draws in new air and thus creates an even flame with high heat output.
2 Why is secondary ventilation so important?
The secondary ventilation draws preheated air through upper holes into the flue gas area. Unburned particles burn there, making the fire smokeless, cleaner and hotter – similar to modern wood-burning stoves.
3 Which material is suitable for building a fire barrel?
A 200-liter steel drum (sheet steel drum) is ideal. It is heat-resistant, inexpensive and easy to work with. It is important that the inside of the drum is clean and free of residue. Alternatively, a washing machine drum can also be used.
4. what must be taken into account when burning in the barrel?
The barrel must be completely burnt out to remove old paintwork, paint residue or traces of oil. This process takes place outdoors, lasts several hours and thermally cleans the metal. Only then is the garbage can safe to use.
5 How many ventilation holes does a fire barrel need?
For a good primary air supply, two rows of 8-10 holes each in the lower area are usually ideal.
Diameter: approx. 25-30 mm.
For the secondary air, 10 mm holes in the upper area, about 10 cm below the edge, with a distance of about 15 cm between the holes are sufficient.
6. can you build a fire barrel from an old oil drum?
Yes, but only if the barrel has been thoroughly cleaned or completely burnt out. Used oil residues, paints or chemicals must no longer be present. High temperatures are generated during the first burnout, which must remove all residues.
7 Which fuels are permitted?
Only dry, untreated wood is permitted.
Hardwoods such as beech, oak or ash are ideal as they burn evenly and produce few flying sparks. The burning of waste, painted wood or pallets is prohibited (§ BImSchG).
8. how can you prevent rust on the fire barrel?
The garbage can should be cooled down, cleaned and kept dry after use.
Drainage holes in the floor prevent standing water.
In addition, a heat-resistant coating (>800 °C) and an elevated installation (e.g. on bricks) helps to protect against moisture from below.
9. is it permitted to use a fire barrel in the garden?
Basically yes, but local regulations differ from region to region.
The burning of untreated wood without significant smoke or odor nuisance is permitted. This should be avoided in densely built-up areas or in strong winds.
10. can a fire barrel also be used for barbecuing or cooking?
Yes, the fire barrel can be used as a barbecue with a grill grate or fire plate.
Prerequisite: The barrel has been completely burnt out beforehand and contains no residue.
The barrel can be used as a barbecue area, heat source or cooking surface.
- 【EXTRA LANGE LEBENSDAUER & REIBUNGSLOSES SCHNEIDEN】Merryland Trennscheibe 125 Metall Stahl Edelstahl für Winkelschleifer. 5 Sterne Expert-line. Bestehend aus Hochwertigem Kalzinierter Korund. 35~50% Besser als Herkömmliche Trennscheiben. Top Qualität & Extra Lange Lebensdauer!
- 【VERSTÄRKTE STRUKTUR & SICHERHEIT GARANTIERT】125 X 3,0 X 22,23 mm Trennscheibe. 3,0 mm Dicke Professional Flexscheibe, 2 Lagen Verstärktes Fasergeflecht, Max RPM 12250, Nach EN 12413, MPA Zertifiziert. Sicherheit Garantiert!
- 【BREITE ANWENDUNG & SPEZIELLE ZWECKE】Metall, Stahl, Edelstahl / INOX, Eisen, Blech, Kunststoff, Stahlrohr. Geeignet zum Schneiden einer Vielzahl von Materialien. E21083042 Eignet sich besonders zum Schneiden von Stahl!
- 【EINFACHE BEDIENUNG & STABILE LEISTUNG】Winkelschleifer und Trennschleifer mit 125 mm Durchmesser und 22,23 mm Bohrung Sind für Diese Scheibe Geeignet. Schneller und Genauer Flexscheibe!
- 【MASTER DESIGN & SCHÖNE VERPACKUNG】5 Stück / Schrumpf, 25 Stück / Schwarze Box, Eine Sicherheitsanleitung in der Box. Ein Ideales Geschenk für Freunde und Familie, die Metallbearbeitung Lieben!
Further projects: Mobile heat sources with diesel heating
In addition to the fire barrel, I have implemented several projects involving mobile and stationary heating solutions in recent months – particularly with compact diesel parking heaters, which are ideal for garden sheds, workshops or outdoor areas. These systems are the perfect complement to outdoor heat generation, as they work independently of the power grid and open flames and provide targeted heat where it is needed.
In my article 5 diesel parking heaters in comparison – which one is right for you? I compare different models in terms of performance, noise level, energy consumption and installation options. The article provides a good overview of which heater is suitable for mobile projects, vehicles or fixed installations.
In another article, the KROAK TB2 diesel parking heater 8 kW – unboxing, test & possible uses, I show in detail how the system works, which components are included and where it can be used in practice – including in my workshop and in a mobile heating box.
For anyone who wants to expand or optimize existing heating systems, I recommend the article Upgrading the diesel parking heater – installing a tank extension for the mobile heating box. There I describe how the running time of the heating system can be significantly extended by installing a larger tank – a practical tip for anyone who wants longer operating times in winter.
These projects show that outdoor heating can be realized in very different ways – from the classic fire barrel with a natural fireplace effect to modern diesel heating with electronic control. Both systems have their own appeal: the fire barrel as a visual and atmospheric highlight, the diesel heater as an efficient, weather-independent solution for constant heat in the garden shed, camper or workshop.
- HOCHLEISTUNGSFÄHIGE SPIRALBOHRER MIT TITANBESCHICHTUNG: Unsere Spiralbohrer bestehen aus titanbeschichtetem HSS (Hochgeschwindigkeitsstahl), was ihnen maximale Haltbarkeit verleiht und ihre Lebensdauer im Vergleich zu herkömmlichen Bohrern um das Sechsfache verlängert. Die Titanbeschichtung steigert Oberflächenhärte, Genauigkeit und Bohreffizienz, während sie gleichzeitig Reibung und Verschleiß minimiert.
- UMFANGREICHES BOHRERSET FÜR JEDES PROJEKT: Dieses Bohrerset umfasst eine sorgfältig zusammengestellte Auswahl der populärsten metrischen Bohrergrößen für diverse Anwendungsbereiche. Mit 5 oder 10 Ersatzteilen pro Größe, von 1,0 mm bis 10,0 mm, eignet es sich ideal für sowohl Heimwerker als auch Profis.
- SICHERE UND PRAKTISCHE AUFBEWAHRUNG: Im robusten Aufbewahrungskoffer sind Ihre Bohrer sicher vor Beschädigungen geschützt. Die Größen sind klar auf dem Koffer markiert, sodass Sie schnell und einfach den benötigten Bohrer auswählen können. Ein sicherer Stahlverschluss bewahrt die Bohrer vor ungewolltem Herausfallen während des Transports.
- VIELSEITIGES BOHRER SET METALL UND MEHR: Unser 99-teiliges Set enthält titanbeschichtete HSS-Bohrer (Hochgeschwindigkeitsstahl), die hervorragend für Holz, legierte und unlegierte Metalle, Hartplastik, Plexiglas und mehr geeignet sind. Es ist ein unverzichtbares Werkzeug für Heimwerker, Reparaturarbeiten sowie Bau- und Renovierungsprojekte.
- PERFEKTE AUSWAHL FÜR ALLE BOHRAUFGABEN: Mit diesem umfassenden Bohrerset sind Sie für sämtliche Bohraufgaben bestens ausgestattet. Es bietet eine ausgezeichnete Abdeckung für Arbeiten in Holz, Metall und Kunststoff und enthält alle gängigen metrischen Größen sowie Ersatzteile. Ideal für den Einsatz zu Hause, in der Werkstatt oder auf der Baustelle.
Dieser Beitrag ist auch verfügbar auf:
English 
Deutsch
Ähnliche Beiträge
Robot lawn mower – Find and repair a broken control cable easily
Program Hunter X-Core control computer for garden irrigation yourself
